FULLARTON STORE OPEN WEDNESDAY TO FRIDAY 10AM-4PM & SATURDAY 12-4PM
Buy online! Orders over $200 ship for free!

The All Well Cardigan Coat pattern was not on my radar until I Googled 'quilted jacket pattern' for some wintry inspiration. And it's not specifically quilted, but can be made so. But I've just been told by a customer that it was 'everywhere' in her Instagram feed at the moment, so maybe you, too, have stumbled upon the Cardigan Coat by All Well Workshop already.

All Well Cardigan Coat variations line drawing

Anyhow it's a top little pattern, very well suited to beginners, or someone with more experience who's looking for a great 'base', from which to jump off in all sorts of creative directions.

It suited what I was looking for: cosy and casual, yet a step up from a hoodie. 

Reasons to love the All Well Cardigan Coat

  • Whilst it's PDF only, available from the designer's Etsy shop, the home-printing version has only 17 pages, which is totally do-able without sapping your will to live. It also has an A0 printshop version. And it's really quick and easy to trace off what you need, preserving all your sizes and options.
  • Instructions are thorough and include a massive 'hacking guide', which although it uses that 'hack' term I hate, is forgivable because it's so comprehensive and jolly.
  • You can totally whip one of these up in a day.
  • Beginner-friendly and very forgiving in fit.
  • The size range is great, in six easy-fit sizes from 32"/81cm to 62"/157cm bust.
  • Quite economical in fabric (depending on size and variations).
  • Easy to make reversible: two jackets in one!
  • Adaptable to all sorts of fabrics including fairly stable knits (with some seam finish changes, boiled wool would be fab).
  • Loads of variations including collars, lengths, quilting, pockets and seam finishes. 

Herewith, two versions:

Cardigan style, lined, cropped length: no major mods.

All Well Cardigan Coat on sandstone wall

This first Cardigan Coat, a shop sample, is the Size 2 made as per the original base pattern, with options of lining and bound edges. (You can also choose a simple double turned hem edge.) To help with fabric efficiency, I opted to cut the sleeves separately. The pattern walks you through this step, should you choose.

Both outer and lining fabrics are 110cm wide, and I used 1.75m for the lining and 2.1m for the outer, including self-bias binding (1.5" strips). I grabbed both these fabrics from our Sale bin. The pink is already all gone but the lining is still available.

Construction is exceedingly simple, with just a few seams, and the optional lining using the same pattern pieces. It's arguably worth making your Cardigan Coat lined simply because that eliminates the need to finish any internal seams!

All Well Cardigan Coat in pink puff dot

Obviously it's not a tailored finish, lacking facings and 'proper' jacket structure. The 'Cardigan' name tells you this is a simple, relaxed garment for comfort-dressing.

This version is almost reversible, except I added a hanging loop and label to the neckline, and stitched a pocket on through both layers.

A number of options are given for closures, and I opted for a single button from my stash.

The pocket on this one is per pattern but reduced in height to suit the cropped length.

 

Hooded version, lined, reversible, cropped length.

All Well Cardigan Coat red on sandstone wall

I almost chose a Ruby Star Society canvas with beans (beans!) for my 'one to keep', but in the end this Kokka 'Imaginary Nature' Spot Puffs print won the day. It's paired with a mid-weight Japanese linen/cotton canvas in 'Melon'. I toyed with the idea of quilting the whole thing into total cosiness with a layer of batting, but actually had more of a light jacket gap in my wardrobe.

There's a 1.25" hem allowance on the bottom of the bodice pieces, which is trimmed off if you're using the binding method to finish. So I was even more fabric-efficient this time by folding that hem up on the pattern piece, and not cutting it in the first place. Neither of these fabrics was directional (as far as I could tell, after some staring and blinking), and I used about 1.6m of the patterned one and 2m of the plain which was also used for binding.

All Well Cardigan Coat with hood

The hood was added according to the suggestion of the 'hacking guide', using a hood from another pattern I had. I also copied the neckline from that pattern onto the front and back bodice pieces, so the hood would match.

I wanted the outer and lining to be firmly attached together at the base of the hood. So before binding, I basted the outer and lining bodies together, and the outer and lining hood as a separate element. Then I sewed the doubled-up hood onto the doubled-up body with outer right sides together, through all four layers.

All Well Cardigan coat construction detail

I trimmed and pressed the seam firmly towards the jacket body (lining side), and covered the seam with a piece of self-fabric bias, carefully pinning and sewing it above and below the seam line. The ends of the bias are covered by the binding that continues right around the jacket body and hood.

All Well Cardigan Coat hood detail

To make this jacket entirely reversible, I added pockets to both layers when they were still separate.

All Well Cardigan Coat with hood, reversible

I've discovered I really like having an internal pocket or two. A really secure place to stash my phone, mask, whatever. On the patterned side I used the angled pocket piece, shortened, and with corners rounded off with binding. This was done for speed-binding as much as anything, but I like the look.

I haven't put any closures on this, and I'm not sure that I'll need them. But if I did, I like the pattern's suggestion of making a 'button sandwich' for reversibility: a button in the same place on inside and outside of the jacket, so the buttonhole can be used with either side outwards.

Do you really need this pattern?

Okay, the shape is really simple, as is the construction. I probably could have 'hacked' it myself out of a pattern or two I already own. But you know, somebody has already done all the pattern work for us, plus put together loads of written and visual inspiration and tips. This independent designer fully deserves my twenty-something-dollars. I've already had value from this pattern, and I'm probably going to make another soon for my sister-in-law. (Yes, it's quick and easy-fit enough to make for others!) So while you may not 'need' this pattern, if it floats your boat, do yourself and a pattern maker a favour, and shell out.

Tips

There is so much information in the pattern that I don't have a lot to add here.

I recommend reinforcing the underarm curves. Anything I've ever sewn with this sort of underarm seam has tended to pop stitches. So I stretched/straightened out the curves as I sewed (to simulate arm reaching stress), used a small stitch length, and sewed over the section a second time for extra strength. This is especially recommended if, like me, you're using cotton thread: biodegradable but naturally not the strongest.

When using a contrasting lining or binding, bear in mind your top and bobbin thread colours and swap as required.

If you'd like a slightly crisper, less floppy appearance to the front, you could interface one pair of the front bodice pieces (for a lined jacket). Or think about interfacing a strip around the centre front opening to hold a slightly firmer shape.

And lastly, why not try a bold print? It might just make you smile on a dull day.

All WellCardigan Coat on a gate

Pattern here: All Well Cardigan Coat

Fabrics:

Kokka Imaginary Nature Spot Puffs

Japanese Linen Cotton Canvas in Melon

Hokkoh Arch Bears Lawn

- Jane & Fiona xx

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Comments

Rhonda Bradley

Rhonda Bradley said:

Thankyou for another motivating and helpful post. I have purchased the pattern and now psyching my self up to print and put the pattern together.
I like the casual look of the cardigan , it reminds me of some I saw in a museum London that were part of a temporary exhibition of everyday work clothes for Japanese farmers.

Leave a comment