Pattern Review: Deer and Doe Myosotis dress in Lyocell/Cotton Sateen
French pattern company Deer and Doe released the Myosotis Dress in 2018, at the forefront of the ruffles'n'gathers trend. It had a lot of love back then, but despite our best intentions the pattern never made it to the top of our sewing list at the time.
Deer and Doe has since released several more 'fancy' dress patterns, which is why I browsed their shop when I wanted to make a new dress for when I perform with my lovely community choir. I hovered over the recent Orchidée pattern but ultimately was drawn back to the Myosotis. The semi-fitted bodice has more room for drawing in a lungful of air, mid-song!
The sateen fabric is one I specifically earmarked for a choir frock when we ordered it. Fiona and I both immediately made 'ooh, aah' noises over it when we saw and felt the samples. That's when we know we're onto a good thing.
A beautiful Japanese-made blend of 60% Lyocell (sustainably produced viscose from wood pulp) and 40% cotton, it's tightly woven with amazing weight and drape, and a subtle sheen. Without being fussy or delicate, it quietly says 'special'. (We also had it in an amazing golden Wattle colour, sold out but on reorder.)
After being a conscientious human and making a muslin of the bodice to check fit, I made a narrow shoulder adjustment. I was looking for a longer sleeve, however the ruffled option was a couple of ruffles too far for me. So I lengthened and slightly flared the sleeve, then gathered into a narrow cuff band (probably channelling the Orchidée pattern). The rest was plain sailing. There seem to be as many different methods for attaching collars/collar stands as there are days of the week. This one wasn't my favourite, so I'd use another way if I made the pattern again.
The photo on the left shows how I trialled a much-lengthened main skirt tier. There was a sombre orchestral vibe that I wasn't really digging (does my face give it away?), and I chopped a chunk back out again. Much better.
Black is not my norm, but I really do love this dress so there's a possibility it may be worn outside of choir duties. Especially since the performance I was aiming for was cancelled (thanks, COVID) and who knows when we might hit the stage again?
In any case I think I'll be making a short sleeved Myosotis for summer - it'd be a winner in double gauze.
|Back view showing bodice darts|
|It has pockets! And it twirls!|
PATTERN: Myosotis Dress by Deer and Doe - sizes EU 34 - 52 (Hip 86 - 122cm/33.75 - 48")
FABRIC: Lyocell/Cotton mid-weight sateen, made in Japan
ADJUSTMENTS: Narrow shoulder adjustment, created longer sleeve gathered into cuff, slightly lengthened main skirt tier.
COMMENTS: A lovely pattern that still feels very current. The collar, buttons and bodice darts elevate the Myositis beyond some of the simpler loose summer dress patterns out there, if you're looking for a little more detail to go with your comfort. Oh, and nice roomy side seam pockets are included. Highly likely to make again.
- Jane xx